Monday, June 13, 2011

The Dirty Dirty South

One of the greatest blessings of being placed in a country like Azerbaijan is the public transportation infrastructure. Though the roads aren't incredible there is a massive and pervasive bus system that can help you get from any part of Azerbaijan to another. Its one of the many things PCVs here take for granted that really is something exceptional. This isn't common amongst PC countries, or even many states in the US for that matter.

So, with school done I decided to get out of dodge, and explore South Azerbaijan for a week. Already in Baki for the softball tournament, I hopped on the other team's bus heading south and stayed with a friend in Bilasavar. Bilasavar is quite close to Iran, we actually took a walk to the stadium there which has a beautiful view of the Iranian mountains in the distance.

Also in the distance we saw a massive rain cloud that only grew darker, larger, and closer. By the time that we were walking home sheep were silent, dogs were hiding their heads, and birds were nowhere to be seen. Ignoring all the signs, we idiotically decline a ride and soon found ourselves caught in monsoon. It was the type of rain where when you get hit by one drop you get soaked and by the time we ran to a construction site for shelter we already were waterlogged. The workers took pity on the unworldly Americans and tried to hail a cab for us. Finally one made its way to us, weaving through a newly created river carrying trash and tree branches.

He stopped for us a block away from my friend's house, telling us he could go no further. So the three of us took off our shoes and glasses to make dash for it. It was like running through a water park at night and we all kept an even 20 feet behind the other, should our nearsightedness prank us. I can only imagine what was going through the heads of the 50 or so Azeri men who gawked and pointed at us from the crowded comfort of their overhang. "And he doesn't want to get married! He doesn't even realize its raining!"

But the rain had stopped by the next day and I went west to Neftchala to deliver a teacher training and help out with a summer camp. Summer camp was really fun, we played kickball (which is about as frustratingly difficult to explain as softball) made potato stamps, and played elbow tag. I learned a couple really good ideas for camp, like a new icebreaker, a craft idea of team flags, and instituting a 'no-football' rule.

I retraced my steps east to visit a former cluster mate. It turned out that I was arriving on the day of a wedding so naturally my presence was expected at that. Weddings in Azerbaijan are massive affairs, but they're not as formal as in America. Friend of the grooms high school teacher? No problem! American friend of the friend's landlady? Welcome! This might not be the case for Azeris so much, but American's are always welcome, especially if they will dance and give a speech.

So after a day of festivities and a morning of sleeping in, my friend and I headed back up North for another friend's birthday party and finally I made my way back up to Khachmaz. I'm lucky in that I really like my site and have still found no city yet in Azerbaijan I'd rather be placed. I'm also lucky in that I have my own apartment and there was a true sense of relief in getting back to my home, locking the door, and settling in. Now, I just have to motivate myself for work this upcoming week.

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