Sunday, February 27, 2011

Eye on Design, Azerbaijan-Part 1

I've lamented this before, Azerbaijan is lacking a visual tradition. It has a rich music tradition and folk music is heard everywhere, including on pretty much every Azeri television show. But when it comes to a visual aesthetic in this country, it is sorely lacking. In this country, if it functions, it is enough. Consequently most stores and restaurants (what few there are) are the cheapest furniture procured in a barren box, or wares stacked in garden maze of boxes upon boxes.

Other than purchasing a television set, which by now every restaurant and tea house has done, there is little to distinguish one locale from another. People come to these places as a matter of habit, not as a matter of experimentation or belief in the product, the same 5 people you see there today will most likely be the same 5 you see there tomorrow.

Recently though, as in since I've been here, two places have opened up that are strikingly different in that they have been decorated with an obvious thought towards the overall look and design of the establishment and a focus on a modern feel.

The first place is called Cinema Club and every night at 8:30 it shows, on a projector screen, current Russian movies. Its a tea house, and beyond the standard fare, it also serves coffee, hookah (flavored tobacco), satellite TV, and wifi. There is a consistent motif of cars; posters of sports cars on the walls, painted car tires are the base of each table, stacked tires serve as columns for the bar. And everything is done in red or black, the walls, the tires, the leather couches, even the cups and teapots. It opened about a month ago and is now consistently packed, whether or not there is a movie being shown or not.

The second place is a donna stand, doner being a Turkish sandwich and, without exaggeration, the only type of restaurant one can go to. (sidetone: This fact alone shocks me, the absolute non-existence of food innovation. Every single Azeri I've met talks about how much they love burritos. All the ingredients are here to make them, it requires very little overhead. But no, everyone opens up another doner stand, as if their doner is that much better.) Unlike many of the restaurants here which are dimly lit or using patio furniture, the people and very comfortable chairs in this restaurant invite you to sit down. This place actually does have doner that is that much better and has a great location, bordering one of the main parks. It also has a red and black theme (masculine colors for masculine cliental); red chairs, matching table clothes, red aprons, black prep area. It also features satellite TV and, the owner says, soon will have wifi.

Both of these places have seen great success in the midst of extraordinary competition. There are probably 50, if not more, tea houses already in downtown Xachmaz. Doner stands isn't that high but close. I am thoroughly convinced that what has set them apart, and has encouraged their customers to come back, is the focus on creating a enjoyable environment for their patrons and not just for their friends. These places feel like a place you want to spend your money, whereas their competition I've visited (which is a lot) feel like someone's garage. Hanging out in a friends garage is great, but its hard for me to get comfortable in some strangers garage. I would not be surprised if Xachmaz sees more similarly well designed establishments pop up as people try and imitate the success enjoyed by these.

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