New Years in Azerbaijan

The entire time I've been in Azerbaijan, I haven't seen masses of people out socializing. The idea of a packed coffee shop or a Pearl Street bar crawl still evades this society. Socializing largely takes place in the home, the teahouse, or on the corner. On New Years Eve, however, everyone was out and about. The streets were filled with excitement and the parks were packed with people strolling, kids throwing fire crackers, and families taking photos. Men and women held hands, teenage girls and boys looked like they were on actual dates. It was unlike anything else I've seen in Azerbaijan.

Preparation for New Years have been going on for a long time. In almost every way, New Years has the same trappings of Christmas. They have New Year's Trees and Şokta Baba, a jolly man in red and white plush coat, with a large red cap and a long white beard. You string up New Years lights and listen to Christmas(?) carols. These Şokta Babas can be seen roaming around town, in schools, in the parks, on the corner, with the restlessness of a street boy, who very likely is the person most likely under that garb. They can do whatever they want, they're Şokta Baba, the school is paying him to be there now. Like ask the American to come to the canteen with him. Yes, New Years in Azerbaijan means having Şokta Baba ask you to drink Vodka with him at school.

New Years is a big holiday all over. Xachmaz is very much a city and I haven't really experienced village life in the way that my fellow volunteers are. On New Years Eve day however, we all piled in the taxi to head towards the family's home village to visit relatives, friends, and my family's orchards. It certainly gave me a broader perspective on Azerbaijan, such as the wooden toilet or the massive nut shell pile enclosed by brick (about 8x8 feet). Apparently they burn them. When I inquired to Fargani why they burn them he laughed "because they're village people." Truly no other explanation was needed. We left around 4 to head back to Xachmaz, but not after many many meals. New Years in Azerbaijan means eating 3 dinners before 4pm.

After walking with the crowds for about 4 hours, my host brother and I headed back to home to spend time with the family. We stayed up late playing Şeşki, a waaaaay better version of American checkers, and eating fruit and candy. And at 12 we toasted with Azerbaijani Champagne, which tastes as god as it sounds, and rushed out to see the fireworks. Eventually we all went to bed after a long day of guesting and celebrating. But it didn't end right away, New Years in Azerbaijan means waking up to a breakfast buffet of chocolate cake, baklava, honey cake, buttercream frosting cake, and russian candies (with tea of course).

I hope you all had a wonderful New Years Eve and wish you the warmest blessings for the upcoming year.