Where is the excess?

Azerbaijan isn't really a country of excess. From an American's perspective, there's very little hedonism to be found in this country. I guess my life in the US has spoiled me from the thrill of a bare ankle or a cup of tea.

So where is an American to get his buzz. There's always cigarettes, but we're trying to avoid this habit. (Sidenote: An Azeri recently asked me why the PCVs always looked so much younger, I responded because we don't smoke and we smile). The 'buzz' is something we are constantly searching for, some normalcy through escape. There are no bars or chipolte burritos here, so what can we retreat into?

Well, there are a few things. Often we'll get together and cook, Xachmaz has the hookup on one of the more olmas (not allowed) food items among PCVs-bacon. I've instituted a rule with friends that if I am picking up bacon I get to cook it and must be referred to as bacon master. Cookies are another form of retreat, there is a Turkish cookie here that may be the best cookie in the whole wide world. They're called Tutkus, and they're a cookie filled with chocolate cream.

Hookah, which is flavored tobacco, is relatively common here and can also provide a nice escape. It also has the added bonus of being a great place to socialize with Azeri men. Really bad and cheap vodka is available here a plenty but it poisons the soul. Better are the rum balls sent from home (thanks mom!) that my host brother said he was getting drunk on.

Of course there is the healthy release of endorphins with exercise, which satisfies two goals-giving you something to do and de-stressing. But the best buzz, the best retreat, I've found so far is the long, hot shower. Waiting until the water heater is full and then braving the winter cold to the outdoor hamam to have a nice long shower and shave is one of the best feelings in this country. I can't do it too often, but when I can, its a great feeling. Alone in the outdoor cement bathroom is the one time I truly feel there is some semblance of escape from the world.