What Am I Doing?

That subject line is really a question I ask myself everyday for a variety of reasons, but in the context of this update, I mean it in the sense of 'What I actually am doing' over here. At this point I've been at site for a little over 2 months and have gotten myself involved in a few different projects (one might say too many) and have been brainstorming a few ideas for upcoming projects.

My primary responsibility in the community is my teaching. I am teaching 15 classes with 4 teachers which is, to put it bluntly, way too much. There is not enough consistency with any one teacher to really develop a strong relationship and there is not enough consistency amongst the classes due to the fact that I am trying to balance 4 different teachers' schedules. You live and learn; I will certainly be making changes to this strategy next semester.

The not so glamorous truth for an AZB TEFL volunteer is that there is a lot of standing around. I mentioned in a previous email that I have to remember that I am not dealing with Azeri teaching robots; well the teachers are working on learning that I am more than a hugely interactive visual aid. I love the times when I am actually teaching, however it is also the case that often I am like the map on the wall, waiting to be referred to and pointed at. This experience will decrease with time and students and teachers will become a bit more accustomed to my presence as a teacher in the classroom.

Lannea, a fellow PCV, and I are in the middle of our first Conversation Club, which is with 12 10-14 year olds. And is as awesome, funny, and exhausting as you might think a club with a dozen tweens who all speak one language that we don't speak is. We meet twice a week and have a program that is directed at beginners. It is in the Conversation Clubs that PCVs really get to have fun because we get to do whatever we want. In one lesson we taught town and city vocabulary by having them draw a huge map. In another lesson we focused on the emotions with charades. It also allows Lannea and myself to try out some potentially effective teaching techniques. This will last until mid-March, in which we will start another one up.

Every other Saturday I have a Teachers Conversation Club, which is aimed at teachers in Khachmaz that can speak the English language. Teachers continue to tell me they want conversational practice and this is one way I am trying to assist them. Last time we met our lesson was to each describe a good memory. Then we described it just by sight, by sound, by smell and taste, by touch, and by one word. The objective was to focus on summarization and imagination with descriptive vocabulary. I don't know if that was achieved, but it was fun.

Lastly, I'm on the committee for the 2011 Writing Olympics. In late March students from 6th-11th form and University will compete in a creative writing contest. They will have 1 hour to write essays on topics like 'Would you rather be a kangaroo or a butterfly?' or 'What would it be like if army service was mandatory for women, and not men?' Winners are chosen for each grade level. Then, winners from each country (there are 11) have an opportunity to compete in Tiblisi, Georgia for the International Writing Olympics. Its a ton of work but really cool. Look forward to more info about this soon.

Warning: this contains toilet humor part II

There were two things people in the states continually recommended for me to pack as I was getting ready for Azerbaijan: toilet paper and ziplock bags. The toilet paper isn't as necessary; for all you potential post-soviet state travelers, the range of consumer goods when it comes to personal hygiene products is pretty good. Yes, they have toilet paper here and no I don't really discern a difference between the two countries offerings. (As an aside, Azeris are incredulous to the fact that Americans would believe there is no toilet paper in this country.)

Up until yesterday night, the ziplock bags have remained unused as well. Seeing the lack of their presence anywhere, whether in an America or Azeri household, I believed these would become part of my (growing) 'unnecessary items' pile, joining the world radio, twin sheets, and half my ties.

Then there was the night when guests were over and I drank 6 cups of tea. Around 10, I had retired to my room and before I knew it, it was late, people were sleeping in front of my door, and I had just disobeyed my 'always use the hamam (outdoor bathroom) before bed). Frantically I looked around the room to figure out a plan. "The window! but its too high;" "Any empty bottles? no;" "THE ZIPLOCK BAGS!" With no time to waste I hastily triple bagged one (there was no way I was going to risk having to explain that situation) and smiled to see a packed item used to its full potential.

And so, life goes on...

While mentally preparing to leave the country for 2+ years, I knew I would miss some major happenings back stateside. 2 years is a long time, and a long enough time to expect major developments in friend and family lives beyond the general growth that accompanies our day-to-day lives.

I just recently received an email from a good friend with awesome news; she got engaged. I had already faced the facts that, unfortunately for me, I would probably be missing some weddings while in the Peace Corps. Most of my friends are in their late 20s and are smart, funny and handsome/beautiful and I somewhat expect them to be scooped up. I was prepared for the fact that this would happen.

What gave me pause over this email was the sudden though of what life would be like when I get back, in 2+ years. The prospect of missing a few friends' weddings is sad, but whats dizzying is to think of coming back to the states, after a couple years, and figuring out how to interact with some of my closest friends who are now married. There's no preparation for that.

Have you seen this?

This is a great new blog that caught my eye. Its really well done. The title alone should motivate you to go there now. Bangable Dudes in History

Where is the excess?

Azerbaijan isn't really a country of excess. From an American's perspective, there's very little hedonism to be found in this country. I guess my life in the US has spoiled me from the thrill of a bare ankle or a cup of tea.

So where is an American to get his buzz. There's always cigarettes, but we're trying to avoid this habit. (Sidenote: An Azeri recently asked me why the PCVs always looked so much younger, I responded because we don't smoke and we smile). The 'buzz' is something we are constantly searching for, some normalcy through escape. There are no bars or chipolte burritos here, so what can we retreat into?

Well, there are a few things. Often we'll get together and cook, Xachmaz has the hookup on one of the more olmas (not allowed) food items among PCVs-bacon. I've instituted a rule with friends that if I am picking up bacon I get to cook it and must be referred to as bacon master. Cookies are another form of retreat, there is a Turkish cookie here that may be the best cookie in the whole wide world. They're called Tutkus, and they're a cookie filled with chocolate cream.

Hookah, which is flavored tobacco, is relatively common here and can also provide a nice escape. It also has the added bonus of being a great place to socialize with Azeri men. Really bad and cheap vodka is available here a plenty but it poisons the soul. Better are the rum balls sent from home (thanks mom!) that my host brother said he was getting drunk on.

Of course there is the healthy release of endorphins with exercise, which satisfies two goals-giving you something to do and de-stressing. But the best buzz, the best retreat, I've found so far is the long, hot shower. Waiting until the water heater is full and then braving the winter cold to the outdoor hamam to have a nice long shower and shave is one of the best feelings in this country. I can't do it too often, but when I can, its a great feeling. Alone in the outdoor cement bathroom is the one time I truly feel there is some semblance of escape from the world.